USB Charger for the Archos Gmini XS200
Introduction
Here I will show how to make a USB charger for your Archos Gmini XS200. This may also work for the other Gmini models. Why would you want to do this? Well that's a good question. Many MP3 players have the capability to charge from a USB port. The Gmini XS200 does not. It comes only with a charger that you plug into the wall. When you're traveling or just don't have access to an outlet, you might find something like this useful. Well I guess it's only useful if you have a computer around too. I guess it's just good to have another way to charge the unit, and I'm almost always around a computer. Keep in mind I know very little about electronics and voltages and Ohms and Amps and stuff like that. This could be harmful to the Gmini by not providing enough current during charging or providing too much voltage. Heck, I don't even know what I'm talking about. I got this idea after I tried using a power adaptor for a CD player to charge the Gmini XS200. The plug didn't fit correctly, but if you pushed it in just right it would charge.Required tools
There are some tools you will need to complete this. As a bare minimum you need only the first three. If you don't have a scissor (who doesn't?) or a wire cutter, you can use your teeth.- Archos Gmini XS200
- USB cable with one connector that fits a standard computer USB port
- A connector that fits the Gmini XS200
- Soldering iron and solder
- Scissor or wire cutter
- Plier
- Magnifying glass
Step 1: Locate your required tools
Locate your tools. It's always nice to have all of your tools in one place before you start so you don't have to leave. Sometimes when you leave your work area to find a tool, you may forget about the work you were doing in the first place.
From left-to-right, top-to-bottom, the items above are: connector and cover that fits Gmini XS200, USB cable, magnifying glass, scissor, solder, and soldering iron. Note the magnifying glass. Although we don't actually use it in this procedure, it's always nice to have around in case you see something small like an ant. It's also fun to look at your fingerprints with.
Step 2: Snip off unneeded end of USB cable
You won't be needing this USB cable any more. Using the scissor or wire cutter, snip off the end that doesn't connect to your computer. If you don't know what end that is, try it in your computer. In my case, I used the USB cable that came with my Canon S230 digital camera. This camera was accidentally and permanently destroyed in a repair-job-gone-wrong a few months ago, so I definitely didn't need the cable.
Step 3: Strip the plastic from the cable end
Again, using the scissor or wire cutter or your teeth, strip off the plastic from the end of the cable. This will expose a mesh and foil shield as seen above. Cut the excess mesh and foil off as well, exposing the coloured wires. Here I have used the scissor to strip the wire. Be careful not to cut too deep.
Step 4: Strip plastic from +5V and GND and put connector cover onto USB cable
Locate the VCC and GND wires. If you have a standard USB cable, the wire colours will be in the table below. The VCC (+5V) is red, and the GND (ground) is black. If you don't see these colours, or want to make sure, I suggest using a voltmeter to test for the power and ground. Strip about 5-10mm from these two wires. Leave the others as they are.
Put the connector cover onto the cable now. I almost always forget to do this part, and when I'm finished soldering or taping everything up nice I realise I have to undo everything to put the cover on! Annoying!
Cable colors:
| Pin | Name | Cable color | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | VCC | Red | +5 VDC |
| 2 | D- | White | Data - |
| 3 | D+ | Green | Data + |
| 4 | GND | Black | Ground |
Step 5: Attach connector to cable and solder +5V and GND
Carefully attach the connector innards to the two wires. VCC is attached to the inner connection, and GND is attached to the outer. Leave the other wires just dangling. Or you can cut them shorter so they don't get in the way.
Now solder the wires in place. Make sure they aren't touching each other anywhere or they will short out and possibly damage your USB port. Take care to ensure that they aren't touching the shield or foil as well. Use a small amount of solder and snip the excess wire off when you have finished.
Step 6: Crimp connector around wires
The connector innards usually have a little metal bit that you can crimp around the wires to provide extra grip for the times when the plug gets pulled or caught on something. At least that's what I think it's for. I took the plier and crimped this bit around the wires. Now it's all snug.
Step 7: Cover connector
Pull the connector cover over the connector innards. If your connector innards are like mine, they'll have a little thread on them that you can use to screw the cover onto.
Step 8: Finished
That's it. You should be done. If you were thinking ahead, you probably would have tested that it works at Step 5 before you did any soldering. As you can see in the above picture, the little blue charge LED is on, indicating that the unit is charging.
Note: According to http://pinouts.ru/data/USB_pinout.shtml, a USB port can give up to 500mA, but only 100mA per device. Now, the Gmini XS200 charger states on the back that it outputs 1.6A. I'm not really sure what that means, but I think that it means the Gmini will draw more current from your USB port than it was designed to handle.
Update 2005-05-02
Guy Boyangu writes in to say he's successfully made this cable, but with an enhancement: dual headed cable for both charging and transfer. Nice work, Guy. Here are some pictures:
Copyright 2005 Donn Morrison
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